Whether you’re vegan or avoiding eggs for allergy or dietary issues, you have probably seen a lot of things about egg replacers. There are quite a few options, but they are not all equal. Some work well in one application but not others. Some don’t really work well ever. If you’re just getting started baking and trying to substitute for eggs, the options can be overwhelming, so I’m going to try to break down each type and their pros and cons.
(Before I get started, I just wanted to add that I plan on gradually adding pictures showing thing made with different types, but it’s hard to get motivated to bake a bunch of things that I know will be terrible. I’m looking at you, cookies made with applesauce).
BUT FIRST, what’s the point of eggs in baked goods? Eggs can serve a few different purposes. They help bind ingredients together (like glue! But made from an unfertilized ovum. Gross). They give leavening and lift (because air gets trapped in them when whipped). They provide moisture (because they are liquid-y, as you have hopefully noticed). They provide flavor and give color (although how many baked goods have eggs as a prominent flavor? Not a lot).
So when you are looking to replace eggs in a recipe, you should first ask yourself what their purpose is in that recipe. If they are there to provide binding, is vinegar and baking soda going to do the trick? (Hint: NO). If eggs are giving lift, like in a cake, is mashed banana going to accomplish that? Not really, and it’s going to taste like banana. So without further adieu, here’s my breakdown of the most common types.
AGAR-AGAR: The ingredient so nice, they named it twice. Sorry, I couldn’t resist the obvious joke. Agar is made from algae, has been used in various Asian cuisine for centuries and has incredible binding properties. HOW TO USE IT: 1 tbsp of agar mixed with 1 tbsp of water equals one egg, or so they say. The only time I tried it, it turned into a thick pile of goo. Incredible binding properties! So I threw it out and had to use a different egg replacer. PROS: Did I mention the binding properties? CONS: Expensive, binds a little too well. THE VERDICT: Save it for replacing gelatin. There are other egg replacers that work better and cost less. :
APPLESAUCE: Applesauce can work as a replacer for both eggs and oil. But use unsweetened, as the sweetened kind can make your baked good a little too sweet. HOW TO USE IT: 1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce equals one egg. Sometimes it adds a little too much moisture and is a little too heavy, so use it for half the eggs and a different replacer for the rest. Vinegar and baking soda works well in combination with applesauce. You get the binding and the leavening. PROS: Readily available, you can eat whatever is left over, works well in cakes. CONS: Does not work well in cookies. I learned the hard way. Don’t make the same mistake. THE VERDICT: Works well in some things, not so much in others.
AQUAFABA: Mmm, bean water. The only really good substitute for egg whites that I’ve ever tried. Not perfect, but gets you 90% of the way there. I’ve only tried it using the water from cans of chickpeas. I’ve heard of mixed results using the liquid from other types of beans. So let’s just stick with chickpeas. HOW TO USE IT: 3 tbsp equals one egg. PROS: Traps air better than any other egg replacer. Flavor disappears when baked. CONS: You kind of have to have something in mind with chickpeas before you go this route. Although it gives you a great excuse to make hummus AND bake. So a negative that’s really a positive? Yeah. THE VERDICT: So far, I’ve only made macarons with aquafaba, with mixed results. But I think that had more to do with bad recipes and my occasionally poor macronage skills. Definitely something I’m going to try more in the future, especially with other things.
MASHED BANANAS: Bananas have good binding properties, but the downside is that anything you make with them will taste like bananas. Maybe a little. Maybe a lot. But the flavor will be there. Great in some things, but not in everything. HOW TO USE IT: 1/4 cup well mashed banana equals 1 egg. PROS: Good binding. CONS: The flavor doesn’t work in everything. Especially when it’s a surprise. Doesn’t provide much/any lift. THE VERDICT: Bananas as an egg replacer in banana muffins? Of course! Chocolate chip cookies? Maybe. Snickerdoodles? NO.
GROUND FLAX: AKA flax meal. I bought a big bag of flax seeds and a cheap electric coffee grinder years ago to just grind my own. The benefit of going that route is the seeds stay good longer in your pantry than the already ground stuff does. HOW TO USE IT: Some people say 1 tbsp ground flax to 3 tbsp warm water equals 1 egg. Some say do a 1:4 ratio. I do it based on what I’m making and how much moisture I need versus binding. Cookies? 1:3. Cake? 1:4. PROS: Strong binding (if you mix it thoroughly and let it sit so it thickens). Seems like it traps air and leavens a little bit, but I might be imagining that. CONS: Can give a slight taste (especially if you’re replacing a lot of eggs). Also leaves little specks of the husk. THE VERDICT: My favorite replacer for cookies. Works pretty well in cakes and quick breads.
POWDERED EGG REPLACERS: When I first went vegan, I think Ener-G was the only widely available powdered egg replacer. Now, multiple companies have their own variations. But the idea and how they work is the same: add water to the powder, mix and use. HOW TO USE IT: Follow the instructions on the package. PROS: Decent binding power. Something you can keep in your pantry for a long time and not worry about (unlike some of the things on this list that have a short shelf life). Provides a little lift. CONS: Some people claim the taste sticks out. THE VERDICT: Decent at everything, but not the best at any one thing. Good to have on hand as a backup plan in case you’re out of whatever your favorite replacer is.
SILKEN TOFU: Yes, the aseptic brick of tofu you see on your grocer’s shelf (or occasionally refrigerated, despite not needing it). The egg replacer you see mentioned in vegetarian and vegan cookbooks from 30 years ago, but not so much anymore. HOW TO USE IT: 1/4 cup, thoroughly ground equals 1 egg. PROS: It does bind well. CONS: Not the most cost effective egg replacer. Also, I’ve never been able to get it to grind so smoothly that little pieces of it are still not visible, which is not visually appealing in a cookie or cake at all. And my food processor is a beast. THE VERDICT: Not the best or worst, but I never find a reason to use it over other options, which are cheaper and work better.
VINEGAR AND BAKING SODA: Yep, regular old vinegar and baking soda, two things you probably already have in your kitchen. HOW TO USE IT: 1 tsp of baking soda mixed with 1 tbsp of vinegar equals 1 egg. Notice how that’s a lot less liquid than some other similar things? More on that in a moment. PROS: Provides good leavening. Doesn’t require anything you probably don’t already have. CONS: Gives no binding. Since it’s only 1 tbsp of vinegar, it’s only a fraction of the liquid in other replacers, so you’re losing out on a lot of moisture. THE VERDICT: Use it in conjunction with something like applesauce (replacing half the eggs with applesauce and half with vinegar and baking soda) and you’ll be in good shape. Replace 4 eggs in a cake with just vinegar and baking soda and you might be setting yourself up for disappointment.
YOGURT: The non-dairy variety in my case. Unflavored, of course, unless you want some very interesting flavor combinations. HOW TO USE IT: 1/4 cup equals 1 egg. PROS: Good binding and good moisture. CONS: Can have a little too much moisture for some things, like cookies. Best used in muffins, coffee cakes and quick breads. THE VERDICT: A good choice for some things, not as good for others. I rarely have non-dairy yogurt in the fridge, and if I do, it’s probably because I’m going to eat it.
OTHER OPTIONS YOU MAY HAVE HEARD ABOUT AND MY THOUGHTS
Arrowroot powder: I think I tried it once or twice. Arrowroot has similar binding properties as corn starch. It works, but no better than most other options. Once that bag of arrowroot was gone (which took a while), I’ve never had the need to buy more. So unless you have arrowroot sitting around, I wouldn’t bother.
Carbonated water: I’m sure it gives some lift, along the lines of vinegar and baking soda, but no binding. Never tried it. Don’t plan on it.
Chia seeds: Apparently they work the same as flax seeds. The only time I’ve had chia seeds in the house was for smoothies for my wife when she was pregnant. Never baked with them. But people say they work, and if you have them, why not give them a shot?
Nut butter: I think I tried it once with some peanut butter cookies I was making. Makes sense, right? Except it just made them more peanut buttery and it was even harder to work with the dough. Haven’t tried it since/don’t see the point in introducing a different flavor (not to mention a potentially deadly allergen) into something that would not otherwise have it.
